(Photos somewhere in my home page photos). The dark color of the wood shows through the scribed line and it can be scribed more lightly than what you have to do when scribing bare wood and rubbing chalk into the scribed line.įor peg head overlays I find it about 1000% easier to glue the inlay permanently on the surface, cut around the border with a extra-fine jeweler's saw, and re-insert and glue the cut-out "sandwich" from the back side. I also found that covering a dark surface such as ebony with a coat of white artist's tempera paint makes for a much easier to see line when it is scribed. I've never had good luck with gluing the pearl down first, so I switched to holding it in place with the sharpened tip of a small wood dowel. Taking it one step farther, I wonder if anyone actually bonds a paper pattern to the board and then just routes the cavity with the paper left in place? If tear out was a concern the paper pattern could still be outlined with an exacto knife to incise the cavity edges cleanly. A splash of rubber cement thinner will let me lift the paper off the wood. I don't need to use the inlays themselves for scribing. Then I can take a fine blade and scribe right through the paper into the wood. Then I can attach the paper to the wood with a light coat of spray adhesive. I cover them with a sheet of black paper, scan them and print them out. I take the inlays and lay them on a flatbed scanner. And there is usually some stubborn spot that needs extra trimming.Īlso, depending on the inlay, I've used a similar procedure as Kent's with a few differences. For simple inlays I'll use a no.11 Xacto blade. And the deeper you can scribe, the easier it is to see the frayed edge pop-off when routing. I try to dot on the glue in the thicker sections of the pearl. I follow the same procedure as John, but I do tack them down with a couple dabs of Elmer's white glue when scribing. A little extra routing is usually needed for the inlay to fit into the cavity, but the disappearance of the burr is a good indicator of completion of the routing if the scribe line and the routing are both accurate. When we reach the scribed line with the bit, the burr of wood immediately disappears, and we know we've reached the line. An advantage of a scribed line when routing is: there is a "burr" of wood at the edge of the router bit where the wood fibers lift at the edge of the cut. Scribing lightly at first helps the piece stay put, whereas trying to scribe a deep line starting out can easily move the piece of pearl. Rub the surface with chalk, and the scribed line is bright-white. Lightly at first, then go over the lines with a little more pressure until the line is deep enough. I use two scribes, one holds the pearl down firmly against the wood, the other scribes around the piece. I prefer the scribed lines, but I don't glue the pearl down. I've used pencils and I've used scribed lines and chalk.
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